Las Vegas beyond the Strip: neon history and the desert

Most people picture Las Vegas as one glittering boulevard. But the city sits in a wide desert valley ringed by mountains, and it has a history, a downtown, a design heritage and a natural setting that many visitors never see. With a little curiosity, it becomes a surprisingly rich place to explore.

A railroad town in the desert

Las Vegas began as a stop on the railroad. Wikipedia's article on Las Vegas records that it was founded as a city when land beside the railroad was auctioned in what would become the downtown area, and that at the close of the twentieth century it was the most populated North American city founded within that century. The same article notes that downtown's Fremont Street is named after an explorer whose writings helped draw pioneers to the area.

That origin still shapes the city. The old downtown grew around the railroad, with a grid of streets and a main street of signs and storefronts, long before the famous boulevard to the south took shape.

The neon boneyard

For much of the twentieth century, Las Vegas was the capital of the neon sign, and many of the most extravagant examples were made here. When signs were replaced, many ended up in storage. Wikipedia's article on the city's neon-sign museum describes a museum that displays signs from old businesses outdoors, and it explains that a sign company's storage lot became the core of the collection, with tours of the new site, known as the Neon Boneyard, beginning by appointment. The lobby of an old motel was later moved there to become its visitor center.

Walking among the retired signs is like touring a sculpture garden of twentieth-century design: giant arrows, stars, starbursts, script lettering and cartoon figures, some faded and cracked by the sun, some relit at night. It is a lesson in typography, advertising history and the city's changing tastes. Check the museum's own information on current tours before visiting; it is best seen at dusk, when the desert sky turns violet behind the signs.

Downtown, architecture and public art

Downtown Las Vegas has grown into a district of galleries, murals, small restaurants and vintage shops. Walking tours and self-guided strolls reveal mid-century buildings, old motels with their original signs, and walls covered in large-scale murals. An arts district holds regular gallery evenings, and the mix of old and new makes for a lively walk.

• Look at the architecture. Mid-century motels, civic buildings and modernist churches are scattered through older neighborhoods.
• Follow the murals. Public art turns blank walls into vivid color.
• Visit local museums on the region's history, from early settlement to the atomic era and beyond.
• Eat where locals eat. The city has a strong food culture beyond the tourist corridor, from diners to family-run places of many cuisines.

Red rock and desert

The real surprise of Las Vegas is how close it is to wild land.

Red Rock Canyon

West of the city, a scenic loop road winds past towering cliffs of red and cream sandstone. Hiking trails lead into canyons, past desert plants and to viewpoints over the valley. At sunset, the rock glows as if lit from within.

Valley of Fire

Northeast of the city, a landscape of flaming red sandstone domes, arches and narrow slot canyons earns its name. Ancient rock art is found in places; look, do not touch, and stay on marked paths.

Hoover Dam

Southeast of the city, the great concrete arch of Hoover Dam holds back the Colorado River in a narrow canyon. It is a striking piece of twentieth-century engineering and design, and the canyon setting is dramatic.

Desert sunsets

The desert light around Las Vegas can be spectacular. Drive a short way out of town in the late afternoon, find a safe place to stop, and watch the mountains turn gold, then pink, then violet. As darkness falls, the city's lights appear across the valley floor like a spill of color.

Heat and safety

The Mojave is hot, dry and unforgiving in summer. The National Weather Service's heat safety page warns that heat can be very taxing on the body, can lead to heat-related illnesses and can make existing health conditions worse, and that everyone can be vulnerable to heat. Carry plenty of water, plan outdoor activities for early morning or evening, wear sun protection, and never leave a person or a pet in a parked car.

From Las Vegas, the rest of Nevada's desert opens up; see backpacking and the high desert. For the canyon country of Arizona and Utah, continue with Canyon de Chelly and the parks of the Southwest, or the Grand Canyon's two rims.