Lausanne, Lake Geneva and Switzerland by rail

Lausanne climbs so steeply from the shore of Lake Geneva that its streets seem to tilt. At the bottom lies the lakeside quarter, with its promenade, boats and plane trees; at the top, the old town and cathedral look out over the water to the mountains on the far shore. Between them runs a small metro, a city stitched together by stairs, lifts and bridges.

A city on a slope

Lausanne is a French-speaking university city, lively and young, with a compact old center of market squares, covered stairways and narrow lanes. The best way to understand it is to walk up and ride down, or the reverse, stopping at terraces with views across the lake. On clear days the water turns a deep blue and the Alps on the southern shore seem close enough to touch.

East of the city, the famous vineyard terraces of the lakeshore rise in steps from the water, held up by old stone walls. Footpaths wind through them between small wine villages, with the lake below and the mountains beyond. It is one of the loveliest walks in the country, and trains along the shore make it easy to walk one way and ride back.

The museum of the modern Games

Down by the lake stands a museum devoted to the modern Games and the history of international sport. Wikipedia's article on the museum describes permanent and temporary exhibits relating to sport and the movement behind the Games, set beside a sculpture garden between the museum and the lake, in the lakeside district south of the city center. Even if sport is not your passion, the setting is worth the visit: gardens, sculptures and wide lake views in one of the prettiest corners of Lausanne. Check the museum's own information for current opening arrangements before you go.

Switzerland by rail

Switzerland is perhaps the easiest country in Europe to explore without a car. Wikipedia's article on the national railway describes an operator that works closely with the country's other transport companies and has invested in the reliability and quality of its conventional network. In practice, trains, buses, lake boats and mountain railways connect with each other at well-planned stations, so a journey from a city to a high valley can be a chain of easy changes.

• Use the lake boats. On Lake Geneva and other lakes, boats are both transport and sightseeing.
• Look at passes as well as single tickets. Travel passes suit those moving often; compare them against your actual journeys.
• Reserve where required. Some scenic trains need a seat reservation even with a pass.
• Travel light. Changes are quick, and small luggage makes them painless.

The general train travel tips apply here with extra force, because in Switzerland the train is often the most scenic seat in the country.

Alpine hiking

Switzerland has an enormous network of marked walking paths, from level lakeside strolls to demanding mountain routes. Signposts give destinations and walking times, and many paths start from a station or a cable-car stop, so linear walks are easy. Summer brings wildflower meadows, cowbells and mountain huts; autumn brings clear light and golden larches.

Mountain weather changes quickly. Carry layers, water and food, check the forecast, and match the route to your experience. Higher routes may hold snow well into summer.

Appenzell: painted houses and old traditions

In the green, rolling hills of northeastern Switzerland, the Appenzell region is known for its wooden houses painted in bright colors and decorative patterns, its dairy farming, and its strong traditions of music, costume and seasonal festivals. In spring and autumn, farmers drive their cattle to and from the high pastures, the animals decorated and the herders dressed in traditional clothes. It feels a world away from the lakeside cities, though it is only a train ride from them.

A hop into Liechtenstein

On the eastern border, the small principality of Liechtenstein sits in the Rhine valley between Switzerland and Austria. It is easily reached by bus from the Swiss rail network. A castle overlooks its small capital, and hiking trails climb the mountains behind it for views over the valley. It makes a curious and pleasant day trip, and you can say you have visited one of the smallest countries in Europe.

Putting a trip together

A relaxed Swiss journey might start in Lausanne, follow the lake by train and boat, climb into the mountains for a few days of walking, and end in the eastern hills. Let the railway do the work, and leave time for unplanned stops. For another European journey on foot and by rail, see Ljubljana, Lake Bled and slow travel in Central Europe, and for a very different mountain landscape, Iceland's geothermal country.