A day on St. John — and island-hopping the Caribbean

St. John is the kind of island that seems to have been designed for a perfect day: steep green hills, curving bays of white sand, water in every shade of blue, and trails that link one beach to the next. Much of it has stayed wild for a simple reason: most of the island is national park.

An island that is mostly park

Wikipedia's article on Saint John describes it as the smallest of the three main islands of the U.S. Virgin Islands and records that approximately 60% of the island is protected as Virgin Islands National Park, administered by the National Park Service. The park's own pages, gathered at the National Park Service's Virgin Islands National Park site, cover visiting its beaches, boating and snorkeling information, hiking trails, camping, and the history of the Taíno people and of enslaved and free Africans on St. John.

Beaches

St. John's north shore is a chain of famous bays, each with its own personality: a long crescent of sand, a small cove with a reef at one end, a quiet beach reached only on foot. The south and east are drier and rockier, with fewer visitors. A good day often means choosing two beaches, one for the morning and one for the late afternoon, and letting the hours between take care of themselves.

Trails

A network of trails runs through the park's forest, past the ruins of old plantation buildings and down to beaches and viewpoints. Some are short and easy; others are steep, rocky and hot. Carry more water than you think you need, wear proper shoes, start early, and check the park's information on current trail conditions before setting out.

Snorkeling etiquette

The reefs around St. John are part of what makes it special, and they are fragile. NOAA's collection on coral reef ecosystems describes coral reefs as some of the most diverse ecosystems in the world, built mainly by animals called coral polyps. A few simple habits protect them:

• Never stand on coral or touch it. Float, and keep your fins well clear of the reef.
• Practice in sand first if you are new to snorkeling or using new gear.
• Do not feed or chase fish, turtles or rays. Watch quietly and let them move on.
• Take nothing: no shells, no coral fragments, no souvenirs from the water.
• Watch for boats and stay within marked swimming areas where they exist.

Island-hopping onward

The Caribbean is a sea of neighbors, and a trip to one island often opens the door to others.

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

The old walled city of San Juan is one of the great historic towns of the Americas, a grid of blue cobbled streets and painted houses guarded by massive stone forts. The National Park Service's page on San Juan National Historic Site gathers information on visiting the fortifications, their history and culture, and how to have a safe visit. Walking the ramparts at sunset, with the ocean on one side and the colorful town on the other, is unforgettable.

The Bahamas

North of the Caribbean proper, the Bahamas spread across a vast area of shallow sea, with water so clear and pale it seems lit from below. Outside the busy centers, the smaller islands are quiet places of long beaches, small settlements and boats.

Turks and Caicos

These low islands are known for broad beaches of fine sand and reefs close to shore. The same reef etiquette applies here, perhaps even more, because the reefs are so accessible.

The Dominican Republic

Sharing the island of Hispaniola, the Dominican Republic has mountains as well as beaches, a historic colonial quarter in its capital, and a strong culture of music and food. It rewards travelers who venture beyond the coast.

Packing for the Caribbean

• A hat, sunglasses and a light long-sleeved layer for sun protection.
• Reef-friendly habits in the water, and sturdy sandals for rocky shores.
• A sarong, which works as a towel, cover-up and sunshade; the page on packing smart has more on this.
• A dry bag for boat days.
• Rain gear in the wetter months, when short tropical downpours are common.

For more Caribbean color, see the colors of Curaçao and Jamaica's flowers, gardens and north coast.